Beeswax Candle Making: Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Most first beeswax candles go wrong for four reasons: the wick is the wrong size, the wax is poured too hot or too cold, the candle is cooled too fast, or it is never test burned. Pour pure beeswax at 70–75 °C, choose a wick to suit the candle's diameter, let the candle set slowly at room temperature, and test burn one candle before you make a batch.

This guide covers pure beeswax in silicone moulds. You do not need fragrance oils, dyes or mica to get a beautiful result: beeswax already has a natural honey scent and a warm golden colour.

Mistake 1: Is your wick the wrong size?

Wick size is the most common cause of a disappointing burn. The right size depends mainly on the candle's diameter, so test burn and adjust until the flame and melt pool look right.

• Wick too small: a narrow tunnel forms down the middle, the flame is weak and may drown in its own wax.
• Wick too large: a tall, flickering flame, smoke, and wax spilling over the side.

Choose the wick by the candle's diameter, and when in doubt test two neighbouring sizes. Our guides What kind of wick should I use for my beeswax candle? and How to choose the right wick go into more detail.

Mistake 2: Are you pouring at the wrong temperature?

Guessing the temperature is the second big mistake. For our moulds, pour pure beeswax at 70–75 °C (158–167 °F).

• Too hot: the wax shrinks more as it cools, which can cause cracks.
• Too cold: the wax starts to set before it fills the mould, leaving soft detail, rough surfaces or air pockets.

Melt the wax gently in a double boiler or a dedicated melter, never over direct heat, and check it with a thermometer just before you pour. Pour in a steady stream to avoid trapping air. Our guide to melting beeswax covers the melting step.

Mistake 3: Is the wick off-centre?

An off-centre wick burns unevenly and can melt through one side of the candle. With our moulds, thread the wick through the hole in the base, pull it snug, and centre it at the top before you pour. There's no need to seal the wick hole in the base of our moulds. Keep the wick straight and lightly taut while the wax sets. See How to use our moulds for the step-by-step.

Mistake 4: Are you cooling the candle too fast?

Beeswax shrinks as it cools. If you rush it, you can get cracks.

• Let the candle set at room temperature, away from open windows, fans and radiators.
• Do not move or tap the mould while the wax is setting.
• A slight dip at the base can occasionally appear. It is minor and does not affect the candle.

Wait until the candle is fully set all the way through before you take it out. Then flex the silicone and the candle releases. No release agent or oil is needed.

Mistake 5: Are you skipping the test burn?

A candle can look perfect and still burn badly. Before you make a batch, or before you give or sell candles, burn one as a test:

1. Trim the wick to about 5–6 mm.
2. Burn it on a heat-safe plate, away from drafts, and never leave it unattended.
3. Watch the flame and the melt pool. A good result is a steady flame, little or no smoke, and a melt pool that reaches close to the edge.
4. Let it cool, relight it, and repeat a few times. Burn behaviour can change as the candle gets shorter.

Write down the wick size and pour temperature each time. If something goes wrong, change only one thing for the next pour so you know what fixed it.

Quick troubleshooting: what went wrong?

• Tunnel down the middle: wick too small. Try the next size up.
• Smoke or a very large flame: wick too large or not trimmed.
• Cracks: cooled too fast or in a draft.
• Soft detail or air bubbles: wax too cool or poured unevenly. Check the thermometer and pour steadily.
• Flame leans to one side: wick off-centre, or a draft in the room.
• White haze: natural beeswax bloom. Nothing went wrong.

How do you look after silicone moulds?

Our moulds are handmade in Latvia from high-quality Italian silicone and are reusable for hundreds of pours. Let them cool before the next pour, avoid sharp tools when releasing candles, and wash them occasionally with soap and warm water. Our moulds are made for pure beeswax; other waxes such as soy or paraffin are used at your own risk.

FAQ

What temperature should I pour beeswax into a silicone mould?

For our moulds, pour pure beeswax at 70–75 °C (158–167 °F). Use a thermometer rather than guessing.

Do I need a release agent for silicone candle moulds?

No. Let the candle set fully at room temperature, then flex the silicone and the candle releases on its own.

Why does my beeswax candle have a white coating?

That is bloom, a natural feature of pure beeswax. It does not affect burning and can be buffed off with a soft cloth or a little warmth.

Should I add fragrance or colour to beeswax?

You do not need to. Pure beeswax has its own gentle honey scent and warm golden colour, and our moulds are made for pure beeswax.

How do I know if my wick is the right size?

Do a test burn. A good wick gives a steady flame and a melt pool that reaches close to the edge without smoking or drowning.

Ready to pour?

If you are just starting, the DIY candle making starter pack is an easy way in, and simple shapes like the Pillars mould are forgiving for a first pour. You can browse every design in our silicone candle mould catalogue. All moulds ship worldwide from Latvia.